(vegetarian, vegan*)
Aside from culture or tradition, recipes are generally created out of inspiration and experimentation. And from those recipes, even more are tried and inspired. Everyone who loves to cook, who are learning to cook, or who cook on a professional level, need recipes. They’re like formulas, roadmaps, and valuable learning resources, yet they can also be a blueprint for the most incredible works of art. I often say that the culinary arts represent the perfect alchemy – that which combines each a bit of chemistry; magic; and at least four of the five senses: smell, taste, touch, and sight. Hearing can be added to the brew for crunchy or textural foods while eating, as well as what you may hear during the preparation process.
However, there is also much to be said for the unrecipe. Dishes that come together without much prior thought, planning, grocery lists, or measurements. Ingredients that you have on hand in the kitchen and what is accessible as fresh, seasonal, simple essentials. The unrecipe is the product of making delicious food guided only by your instincts, imagination, heart, and soul. There’s as much magnificence and beauty in the freshest wholesome and uncomplicated dishes as those that require hours of work, skill, and exotic ingredients. Plus they taste pretty darn exquisite.
Recently, I’ve been studying the work of the legendary Alice Waters and Chez Panisse, which includes reading her biography (and I’m only on chapter 4) named the same. No matter what you eat or don’t eat, vegetarian or not, every American who cares about food should very well get to know her. In fact, I could easily dedicate an entire post to her and just may do so in the near future. But in an attempt to summarize Ms. Waters and why she is relevant to not just the spontaneity of the bucatini pictured above, but to my general attitude toward all of the food I’ve made recently, is quite simply this: as one of the greatest American restauranteurs and pioneer to the concept of morally good food, using only the freshest, seasonal, organic, sustainable ingredients long before today’s mainstream awareness and visibility, Alice Waters is the unrecipe. She is artisinal, delicate, simple, and sweet, which equates to serving up a special sort of sophistication. Why I didn’t read her books sooner, I am not sure, especially since one of them had been sitting on my bookshelf for a good number of years. But now, she’s absolutely got my attention and I’ve just begun to scratch the surface.
I knew that today I would make something new. Yesterday, I had some general ideas rolling around the noggin. I referred to my steno notebook scratched full of recipe ideas, themes, and inspiring ingredients. I tossed through my latest stack of food rag clippings. And then before going to bed, I referred to Chez Panisse Vegetables and once again took note of the simplicity of the preparations, the short lists of ingredients, how everything is written as a celebration of produce at its peak. And some items aren’t as much recipes as they are loose interpretations as to how to treat your beautifully ripened star ingredient.
This morning, I chose to make this bucatini after clearing my head of any preconceived recipe ideas. Not raw, not vegan, not savory, not sweet, cold nor hot. The only obvious parameter is that whatever it was would not contain meat. So I focused on a single red onion sitting in a basket on the center of the kitchen island. It immediately reminded me of the first meal I had in Italy, more specifically, Venice, after a very long and exhausting two days of travel. Spaghetti with just caramelized onions, some parsley, and shaved romano. Very simple, very nurturing, very comforting, very delicious. My purple onion was flawless, as was the brand new potted parsley I just brought home two days ago. This bucatini would deliver a celebration of both my perfect ingredients and an incredible memory.
Slice a medium to large sized red onion into thin half rings. Sweat them down on the lowest temperature in a good, heavy skillet with about 2 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil, a liberal sprinkling of sea salt, a pinch of crushed red pepper flakes, and a few turns of freshly ground black pepper.
About 10 minutes later, when the onions are about halfway done, add about 2 teaspoons of dried oregano, pinching it between your fingers to release aroma. Stir and let the onions continue to sweat down. At this time, also begin boiling 1/2 pound bucatini (half a box) or other long pasta like linguini or spaghetti, in very salty water.
The onions should be ready in about 20 minutes. Turn off the heat and when the bucatini is al dente, ladle straight into the onion skillet along with one ladle of pasta water. Add the zest of half a lemon, and a handful of fresh chopped parsley and toss. At this stage you can also add some freshly grated parmigianno-reggiano cheese, or leave it out to keep it vegan.
In a serving bowl, finish off with a drizzle of high quality extra virgin olive oil. Or even better, one that is infused with Meyer lemon.
<3, JMK
